Looking back over this year's expedition, I discovered that the wonder and meaning of the whole thing was found in my volunteer work. Then the organ boomed out, and with rather shaky knees I returned to my seat. When it was my turn, I looked out to a sea of faces, swallowed hard and read. In a strange linguistic salad, we reassured each other that all would go well. I was led to a reserved seat near the altar by a youngster who was also reading, him in Spanish and me in English. What a joyful and totally unplanned experience it was. I accepted the offer.Ĭunningham gave a reading at Sunday mass at the cathedral, one of many ways she was able to find meaning in her trip. This was a daunting prospect but I wondered if this was my consolation for having given up on my Camino. She asked me if I would take to the podium for a reading - not in the little chapel but in the main cathedral on Sunday for the pilgrim mass. At home in Montreal, I sing in choir at my Orthodox church and have read the epistle several times. One day, my smiling friend asked me if I had ever read the epistle at mass. Volunteers are present to help pilgrims reflect on the meaning of their experiences. Several organizations in Santiago offer counselling sessions or simply places to meet and chat. It is hard to leave the blessed simplicity of walking, eating and sleeping. But like so many others, I now dreaded going back to my routine life at home. My first Camino had been to heal a broken heart, and I had hoped to relive my magical experiences and sense of accomplishment during my second time around. People walk this pilgrim route for a myriad of reasons: for adventure, in religious devotion, to overcome grief or in thanks for a cure. I discovered that I was not the only pilgrim who was struggling. I was welcomed by a smiling nun who invited me to stay for mass and for coffee afterwards. The next day, I slipped into a little chapel. How could I fill the extra week before my flight in ways that brought meaning to what felt like a failure of a Camino? I checked into the same hostel where I had stayed on my previous trip. The Portugese route to the cathedral included some confusing signage. The inland route took me along the old two-lane national highway, where traffic was heavy. On the second day, my hip let me know it was not happy. After one day in the blazing sun beside the sea, I longed for the shady paths of the forest. I wanted to get to the town where pilgrims branch off the coastal road to the interior route. I overdid it by walking 37 kilometres the first day. This route is only about 250 kilometres and it is much less mountainous. I volunteered for two wonderful weeks of cooking, cleaning and encouraging new pilgrims at a traditional inn in Porto before I set off on my second Camino. So in early 2023, I decided to try the Portuguese Camino. They say the Camino calls you back, and I felt that pull. The framed certificate of completion I was awarded on that day holds a place of pride on my wall. Walking into Cathedral Square in Santiago was a moment of joy, accomplishment and gratitude. Cunningham's framed certificate that she received after completing her pilgrimage.
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